The goal of this photography is to produce clear, high resolution images of your textile with fine detail in good focus. Digital cameras and cell phones are fine if the level of resolution is high. If better resolution is required, a digital single lens reflex (DSLR) camera with a suitable lens may be preferred. LED lighting can change some colors. If the print version does not match what you see, make a note of that!
1. If the textile is currently on display, photograph it that way.
2. If the textile is framed with glass or plexiglass protection, avoid flash or any indirect lighting to avoid reflections. *
3. If the textile is unmounted and unframed, but in reasonably good condition, use the following procedure:
a) Use a clean white (or solid colored) sheet or tissue paper as both the background and the dust protector for the textile: lay the sheet or paper down on the floor or carpet and place the textile on top of the sheet.
b) Identify ownership, date, and scale. Make a paper "scale card" and, in black magic marker, print your name, the current date (D/M/YYYY) and draw a line exactly one inch long [6" or 12" long for a large textile] printing beneath it the words "one inch". Do not use a ruler, yardstick, or tape measure: they are difficult to read from a distance!
c) Stand at the edge of the sheet/paper to take photographs of the textile with the "scale card" against the textile's edge. Be sure that the camera is in a plane parallel to the floor and to the textile. In this way, the image photographed will be congruent in size and shape to the actual object. Do not "keystone" the object by slanting the camera! Some over-sized textiles require photography in sections or quadrants. Move the scale and yourself rather than the sheet, if possible. If the location of the textile must be adjusted, fold or roll it up and slide the sheet/paper it is on.
d) Sometimes the weave pattern or interlacing structure of the yarns is unusual or unknown. To produce special details like these in sharp focus, a cell phone can often be adequate; front and back images of the textile is often helpful; sometimes a linen tester ** that combines a scale and magnifier into one tool is also helpful.
4. If the textile is extremely fragile or if it is damaged, do not attempt to move the textile to photograph it. Bring the camera to the drawer or current resting place and take the photography there.
Important Reminders:
While the textile is out for photography, measure the dimensions of the piece and write a description of the textile (possible fiber, weave, appearance (smooth, fine, lustrous, matte), seams or construction, additions (buttons, embroidery, etc.), design and images, inscriptions, damage). File a copy with the photographs, send along with the photographs to the appraiser, curator, or conservator.
Curators and conservators like to see the textile in person, but, for research or an initial overview, good photography may be a satisfactory substitute. They are especially aware that textiles are easily damaged by casual transit.
With regards to the appraising the value of an object, different dealers charge different fees. Explain your purpose. Appraisal valuations for sale or auction are different than those for insurance (retail replacement). Some may refuse to give a valuation without actually seeing the object in person. Others may provide a general range of prices. Be sure to inquire with a dealer before sending documentation to his or her firm.
* If there are reflections, it may be possible to use a white cardboard or other white shiny surface to "bounce" the light, so that it reflects off the white cardboard indirectly and diffusely illuminates the image with light. Do not remove the textile from its frame unless you are intimately familiar with the framing system yourself.
** Suppliers of Linen Testers
Talas - 8X, 6X, 5X
University Products - 8X, 10X, and 12X
Grainger Industrial Supply - 6X magnification with inch and centimeter measurements.
Museum Conservation Institute 2022