By 1875, American hemlock sole leather was disparaged in Europe, and the U. S. Army requested oak tanned leather, though it often did not get it. Since the International Exposition was then in progress in Philadelphia, it was decided to evaluate leather from various countries in the hope of overcoming any prejudice against American hemlock leather. Current leathermaking procedures were dealt with in detail: E.g., sweating vs. liming, the use of mineral acids such as sulfuric, combination tannage using hemlock and oak, and retanning with sumac. Various physical tests were carried out, and the qualities of several leathers were described. The author concluded that oak tanned leather was best, but that properly tanned and curried hemlock leather would make serviceable army footwear.