42486
Accession Number
38457
Editor
Holden, Amanda;Stevens, Sarah;Carlson, Julia;Petersen, Glenn;Schuetz, Emily;Summerour, Rebecca
Title Of Article Chaper
Repair of Twentieth-Century Leavers Lace
Title Of Journal Book
The Textile Specialty Group Preprints: Papers Delivered at the Textile Subgroup Session, American Institute for Conservation of Historic & Artistic Works, 40th Annual Meeting, Albuquerque, New Mexico, May 2012
Volume
22
Pages
70-77
Collation
0.833333333
Reference Bibliography
Includes bibliographic references
Language Of Text
English
Literature Type
Monograph
Literature Level
Analytic
Abstract
One lone mill in Rhode Island stands as a reminder of a once prosperous machine-made lace industry in the United States. If this mill closes, the industrial knowledge in the United States to produce excellent imitations of hand-made lace could disappear. This paper gives a brief history of the Leavers lace industry and investigates techniques to repair damage in Leavers laces. The second part of this paper details a procedure for repairing this machine-made lace. A microscopic examination of twentieth-century Leavers laces in garments and yardage from the University of Rhode Island Historic Textile and Costume Collection revealed how yarns in the manufactured laces interact and facilitated reproducing their movements. Drawings and photocopies of both large- and small-scale laces aided in developing repair techniques that incorporate an adhesive (Jade #403N) to stabilize broken yarns and stitches to replace missing connections. This process is very time intensive, and practice is essential, however the time required for an effective repair shortens with experience. Finding suitable yarns for repairs is a major hurdle, but with patience, time, and a steady hand, the mesh and patterns in damaged Leavers lace can be stabilized and repaired.
Keywords
lace;textile;repair;conservation
pub_id
42486