The study was based (1) on the binding system technique and theresults of the warp analysis, i.e., proportion, material, decoupures and thread count, and (2) on particularities noted during analysis. As a result, 39 silk fabrics were examined, and were grouped into five categories: weft-faced compound tabby, weft-faced compound twill, double or triple-weave, lampas fashion and lampas. Besides the author's article, two other technical reports and wellfounded opinions of other specialists are published in the same volume treating the same subject. Further presentations are to be found in vol. 38 and will also continue in vol. 39, where the authenticity of these fabrics is being discussed. -- AATA