Seventeen pieces of Kinran and Ginran textile interwoven with gold or silver threads, dating from the 17th to 19th centuries were investigated in detail for fabric structure, fibre composition and dye composition. Amino acids present in silk fibres were determinated by using HPLC amino-acid analysing system. For identification of individual dyes, absorption spectra of dye extracts were run in parallel with know specimens of corresponding plant dyes using various chemical tests and TLC, as well as the reflection spectra of dyed cloths. The metallic composition of both gold and silver threads was determinated using X-ray fluorescence analysis. B/W photographs, tables, references. Colour frontispiece.