1228
Accession Number
13519
Author
Hulme, E. Wyndham
Title Of Article Chaper
History of sumach tanning in England, degradation of the manufacture of leather, and history of the reform movement
Title Of Journal Book
Leather for Libraries
Pages
44391
Publisher
The Library Supply Company
Publisher City
London
Language Of Text
English
Literature Type
Monograph
Literature Level
Analytic
Abstract
Spanish leather was sumach tanned. This pale tannage allows truest dye colors. By the 1600's, sumach was imported into England; by the 1700's it was used to tan morocco leather. Vegetable dyes were used on moroccos mordanted with alum, while bark-tanned calf and sheep skins were colored by sprinkling or marbling. Sixteenth century russia leather was stamped with engraved steel cylinders. Degradation of leather manufacture began with the 1769 use of sulphuric acid to tan heavy leathers. With the advent of aniline dyes ca.1870, sulphuric acid was used to clear skins before dyeing. Leathers were judged on color brilliance and uniformity, not durability. In 1851, the electroplate process facilitated grain reproduction, and (weaker) sheepskin imitated morocco, pigskin etc. As bookbinding leather quality declined, buckram etc. flourished. Around 1900 a Committee on Leather for Bookbinding was appointed by the Society of Arts to create standards. The Council of the Library Association also appointed a Committee, supported by leather manufacturers who see that leather needs a standard of manufacture and honest trade descriptions to recover. Librarians should note: 1) Shabbiness, i.e. over edges: probable cause, sulphuric acid. 2) Red rot (powdery) morocco: probably sheepskin goat . 3) Withered and discolored pigskin: probably over pulling down during puering . 4) Deteriorated and discolored calfskins: probably bookbinder's use of oxalic acid to remove grease marks.
Keywords
leather manufacture;leather tanning;bookbinding leather; morocco leather; russia leather;leather deterioration;leather dyeing; leather standard;leather, electroplate;leather coloring;leather, historical manufacture
pub_id
1228